Blackberry Mania - From Storing Tips to Recipes for Savory Blackberry Sauce and Blackberry Brandy

It's blackberry season! Chef Erin shares tips for storing fresh blackberries as well as a couple of her favorite recipes.

Okay, as cheesy as this sounds, blackberry brandy makes me oddly nostalgic for my "childhood." I grew up in Wisconsin and it's sad to admit but we country kids started drinking pretty early. Blackberry brandy was the drink of choice for many of the teenage girls I knew. (I was a sloe gin drinker, myself. Good God!) Anyway, with the plethora of wild blackberries in the Pacific Northwest, I'm always looking for ways to use them up. So an homage to my high school girlfriends seemed like a natural! (This is for you Suzi, Tammy, Heidi, Kim and Lisa - you know who you are!)

On a grown up note, I also love making a savory sweet sauce for salmon, duck or pork so I've included that recipe too. Plus, I think you should try some blackberries in your next lemon or almond cake. To die for!

Savory Blackberry Sauce

for Salmon, Duck or Pork 

Serves 4

Ingredients
2 cups fresh or frozen blackberries
3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoon cornstarch or arrowroot powder
pinch of white pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cold
1/4 teaspoon red wine vinegar

Directions
Simmer the blackberries, sugar and water in a saucepan until the berries are soft and starting to fall apart (about 5 minutes).Take off the burner and put the blackberries into a sieve. Use a wooden spoon or rubber scraper to push the berries through until you have extracted all the liquid. Discard the residue.

Put the liquid back into the saucepan and bring to heat. Whisk in the lemon juice, cornstarch or arrowroot, and white pepper. Heat until it begins to thicken slightly.

Remove from heat and whisk in butter and a dash of red wine vinegar. Add a little salt, if desired.

Spoon over roasted or grilled salmon and it's also wonderful on duck breast or pork tenderloin.

Blackberry Brandy

Ingredients
2 cups fresh, crushed blackberries
1 cup sugar dissolved in 1/2 cup boiling water
2 cups brandy, divided

Directions
Add sugar to boiling water and stir until dissolved. Gently crush the blackberries. Using your hands is fine! Pour the sugar water over the crushed berries.

Pour the mixture into a glass jar, add 1 cup brandy and seal the jar and shake gently. Place the jar in a cool, dark cupboard for 1 week. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve or cheese cloth. Add the second cup of brandy.

Sip on it's own or blend with vanilla ice cream for a decadent smoothie!

Don't forget to join me for a cooking class the next time you are in Seattle!

A Blogger's Take: Moroccan Cooking Class at Chefshop.com

This blog has been reprinted with the permission of Lizette Wolter McKinley, local photographer and blogger.  Check out her blog at http://lisettewoltermckinley.com/

When I saw Chef Shop, a local fine and specialty food purveyor was offering a Moroccan cooking class I was intrigued. There are some types of food I have never attempted to make and Moroccan is one of them. I arrived at Chef Shop a tad early for my class, giving myself some time to look around the store and meet the employees ahead of time. From the start, I was impressed with how friendly, passionate and welcoming all the women were. Hors d'oeuvres were already laid out for the students and drinks were offered within minutes of stepping inside. As we waited for the other students to arrive we nibbled on scrumptious snacks and delicious drinks. 

Since I had never attended a presentation style cooking class before I was not certain what to expect. Once everyone arrived we took our seats and Erin Coopey warmly and enthusiastically greeted us. As Erin sliced and diced she confidently walked us through each recipe. Eliza Ward, Chef Shop's owner and founder, was on hand to interject product knowledge and show us what we could purchase from her store in order to create the food we were witnessing being made.

Our menu for the evening included:

Appetizers: Olives with Harissa and Moroccan-style bean dip

Entree: Chicken tagine with preserved lemons

Sides: Quinoa salad and carrot salad with feta and mint

Dessert: Moroccan coconut "cake" 

After a long, busy day it was nice to sit back and learn about food with the knowledge your dinner is being made for you. Most classes I have attended in the past focus on the importance of fresh ingredients, this class focused on the importance of your what is in your pantry. To be honest, I am a big proponent of eating seasonally and finding the freshest ingredients, but I have never been much thought to the beans I put in my soup or the salt I through in my pot of boiling water. I learned many things throughout the duration of this class, but most importantly I have become more aware of my options. 

For instance, without thinking I have adopted a habit of using olive oil for cooking. Little did I know the burn point of olive oil is not particularly high and that as much as I am trying to be health conscious by using the wrong oil at the wrong temperature I am destroying the health benefits of the product. Same goes for my lack of knowledge in regards to table salt. I have always been under the impression that we as human beings need iodine, I never gave it much thought I am probably consuming enough of it whenever I eat processed food or better yet- seafood. 

Knowledge is power and after the Moroccan cooking class I left feeling confident I could replicate the dishes I had seen prepared before my very eyes. I am eager to use my new rice bran oil, which has a much higher smoke point than olive oil and I finally got wise and purchased large tube of tomato paste. I was getting tired of throwing away cans of unused tomato paste when sometimes you just need a little. 

Chef Shop is a treasure trove for the at home cook or foodie that you know. It is the perfect spot to pick up a unique host/hostess gift or the next time you want to upgrade your own pantry. 

Pulled Pork with Carolina Style Barbecue Sauce

Over the past month, I've been teaching a class on Carolina Barbecue at the PCC Natural Markets.  You'd think that I'd be sick of it by now, but I have to tell you that the recipes are so good that I made them all again this weekend!  The class is a complete summertime feast from Southern Pimento Cheese to coleslaw, roasted corn with chili honey butter, pulled pork, and grilled peaches with bourbon caramel sauce.  It's really a treat.

The pulled pork features my version of a Carolina-Style Barbecue Sauce excerpted from The Kitchen Pantry Cookbook.  It's vinegar and mustard based barbecue like you find in the Raleigh-Durham area of North Carolina.  I created it after a visit with my dear friend, Christin. (Hi CP!)

When I was writing the book, I thought it would be fun to offer more than one type of barbecue sauce. We're so used to the typical tomato/molasses style of most commercial brands. Once I'd perfected the recipe, we invited friends over for a taste test and served both my Kansas City-Style and Carolina-Style sauces. Although both were popular, we all decided that Carolina-Style with its zingy mustard and vinegar base was the favorite.

For the Carolina Barbecue class I use a pressure cooker to make the pulled pork because we have limited time but I thought it might be better to give you the old-fashioned slow braised version here.  It's an all-day affair but I promise it's worth the wait!

Check out the video for an overview and then follow the recipe below for all the details.

Pulled Pork

3 - 4 lbs pork shoulder, pork butt or boneless country spare ribs

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 teaspoons sea salt

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

2 teaspoons smoked paprika

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon mustard powder

1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons bacon fat, lard or oil

1 cup chicken broth, apple cider vinegar or apple juice - your choice

buns for sandwiches, optional

Preheat oven to 250F or 275F. (See Chef's Note)

In a small mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients for the dry rub - brown sugar, salt, paprika, smoked paprika, onion powder, mustard powder, granulated garlic, and black pepper. Stir to mix.

Coat the pork with spice mixture. Massage it in well.

Place dutch oven or heavy pot on the stove top over medium-high heat. When the pot is hot, add fat. Brown the pork on all sides. 

Add the broth to the pot and gently scrape the bottom of the pan using a wooden spoon to loosen any bits of meat and only that are stuck.

Place the lid on the dutch oven. Be sure that it's a tight fitting lid. If you don't have a snug lid, cover the pan with aluminum foil and place the lid on top of the foil to ensure a good seal.  Since the pork will be braising slowly, it's important to seal the moisture inside. 

Place the pork in the oven and roast for 4 1/2 to 8 hours. I realize that's a huge range but it depends on the size of your pork shoulder.  You can estimate it will take about 1 1/2 to 2 hours per pound to cook your pork roast between 250F and 275F.  When you can easily pull the meat apart with a fork, it's done!

I usually let the pork rest for 10 to 15 minutes before pulling it. After the pork has rested, shred the meat with your fingers or a fork and serve with Carolina-Style Barbecue Sauce. Serves 4 to 8


Chef's Note: So, you just can't wait for hours to eat your pulled pork, huh? Well, here's quicker method if you own a pressure cooker.

Cut the pork butt into several chunks, 2- to 3-inches each. Coat the chunks of pork with the spice mixture.

Place a pressure cooker pot on the stove top over medium-high heat. When the pot is hot, add 1 tablespoon oil. Brown the pork in batches. When the pork is browned, remove it from the pot and cover loosely with aluminum foil.

Add 2 cups broth or vinegar to the pot and gently scrape the bottom of the pan using a wooden spoon to loosen any bits of meat that are stuck. Return the pork to the pot, along with any juices that accumulated on the plate. Close and lock the lid.

Bring the pressure cooker to high pressure (15 psi). Immediately reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting to maintain pressure, and set the timer for 1 hour.

When the time is up remove the pressure cooker from the heat and manually release the pressure. Carefully open the lid and remove the meat to a platter. Cover with aluminum foil and let it rest for 10 to 15 minutes before shredding. Discard the cooking liquid and serve with Carolina-Style Barbecue Sauce. 

Carolina-Style Barbecue Sauce

Years ago, my best friend, Christin moved to the Raleigh-Durham area. When I went out for a visit, she took me for some real Carolina barbecue. I was really struck by the barbecue sauce. It was really unlike any I'd ever tried before. It was piquant, tart - just plain zippy.  I really loved it.

When I was writing recipes for The Kitchen Pantry Cookbook, I decided to try to recreate the sauce. I thought it would be good to offer a couple distinct barbecue sauces to choose from.  I love my Kansas City-Style Barbecue Sauce too but the Carolina-Style has stolen my heart.

Condiment photo by Rina Jordan
from Kitchen Pantry Cookbook (2013) by Erin Coopey
(Carolina-Style Barbecue Sauce - center, right)

Carolina-Style Barbecue Sauce

Although I typically use this sauce as a condiment on ribs or pulled pork, it makes a great mop sauce if you are into pit barbecuing. I also love it with grilled chicken!

Makes 2 cups

3/4 cup yellow mustard

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup brown sugar

1 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup water

1 teaspoon hot paprika

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

3/4 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt

Mix ingredients in a medium sauce pan. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. If you like a thicker sauce, just simmer it a bit longer. 

Sauce can be used immediately or refrigerated for up to 1 month.

This barbecue sauce makes a great marinade for either chicken or pork. If you plan to use this sauce as marinade, be sure to cool it in the refrigerator before adding the meat.

Excerpted from The Kitchen PantryCookbook by Erin Coopey, Quarry Books 2013

Buttermilk Potato Salad with Feta and Arugula

I make a pretty good potato salad loaded with mustard, mayo, and hard-boiled eggs. I've been making it like that since I was a teenager. The inspiration came from my mother's 1963 Good Housekeeping Cookbook - the culinary bible of my youth. It's a tasty classic. Nothing wrong with it but, every once in a while it's good to try something new.

A few years ago, I asked my friend Venus to bring some potato salad to a barbecue. She's arrived with a tangy delight that included ricotta salata and arugula, claiming inspiration from a pasta salad recipe by Seattle food icon, Tom Douglas. It was a hit.

After the party I begged for the recipe but Venus is a bit of a seat-of-the-pants-kind of cook so getting the precise recipe just wasn't going to happen. So, I set about recreating the recipe.  Along the line I made a few changes - subbing feta for the ricotta salata, upping some of the herbs, reducing the arugula, etc. I've got it just where I want it.

This potato salad is going to knock your socks off! It's zingy, salty, creamy goodness.  I can't wait for you to taste it!

Incidentally, I met Tom Douglas shortly before the release of my cookbook.  We chatted about the subject of my book and he asked me if I'd looked at another cookbook that sounded similar to mine (the name escapes me now). I said that I hadn't because I didn't want to be influenced. Tom replied, "Oh, it's all been done before. We're all inspired by something we've tried."  So with that in mind, I tip my hat to Tom (and Venus) as the inspiration for this recipe.

Buttermilk Potato Salad with Feta and Arugula

Serves 6 to 8

For the buttermilk dressing:

½ cup buttermilk

½ cup mayonnaise, homemade, or good-quality store-bought

½ cup plain yogurt

2 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

1/3 cup chopped fresh chives

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoon minced shallot

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon seasalt 
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

2 pound small red potatoes, quarter or eighth if too large

1 cup crumbled feta cheese

3 cups loosely packed baby arugula

To make the buttermilk dressing, whisk together the buttermilk, mayonnaise and yogurt and in a bowl. Add the dill, chives, garlic, shallot, and lemon juice and whisk again. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add red potatoes, and cook until tender. Drain the potatoes and immediately run under cold water until completely cool. Drain well.

Put the potatoes in a large bowl and, using a rubber spatula, fold in dressing. Add the cheese and arugula and stir to combine. Chill for 1 hour. Top with freshly ground black pepper and let the compliments roll in!

Get Your Grill On!

We've had an amazing spring in Seattle so far. All this sunshine means we're officially in grilling season. Here are a few of my favorite tips and recipes to kick things off!

A new grilled veggie idea!

Grilled Spring Onions are classic Spanish fare. Even my husband, a professed onion hater, loves these tasty, caramelized bites. Start by cutting about 1/2 inch off the root ends of a bunch of green onions. Next lay the onions on a rimmed sheet pan and drizzle with olive oil. Toss to thoroughly coat the onions and then sprinkle them with a little salt. Grill over medium heat until the whites soften and the greens begin to get grill marks, about 3 to 5 minutes. Serve with a traditional Spanish Romesco Sauce or Garlic Aioli (1 cup mayo, 1/2 tsp crushed garlic, 1 tsp Dijon mustard, and 2 tsp lemon juice blended together). Fab as a simple appetizer or served alongside a juicy steak!

A sweet treat!

Mock Cobbler - This is a simple one but so delicious! Mix 3 cups of your favorite berries or stone fruit with 1/4 to 1/2 cup of sugar, 1/4 tsp of cinnamon and a squeeze of lemon. Spoon 3/4 cup of fruit each onto 4 squares of heavy duty aluminum foil and fold together like a hobo's pouch (make sure the foil is sealed so there are no leaks) and toss on a medium high grill for 5 to 10 minutes. Carefully open the pouches and pour the contents over ice cream or short bread! The fruit will be jammy and intensely flavorful.

Just say no to dried out meat!

I love to grill skinless chicken breast and pork tenderloins but if you aren't careful you can end up with an ultra-dry piece of leather. That's because both items are very lean. To combat this, I brine them. A few hours before you barbeque combine 8 cups of water with 1 cup of kosher salt and 1 cup sugar in a large Tupperware container. Stir to combine and then add 2 pounds of boneless, skinless chicken breasts or pork tenderloins. Brine in the refrigerator for a couple hours and you are ready to grill! You'll be amazed how juicy the result is!

Get your family to eat more veggies!

Luscious Lettuce Wraps - Combine 3 cloves of garlic, the pulp of a large lemon, 2 tsp cumin, 2 tsp paprika, and 1/2 tsp kosher salt in a food processor to make a paste. Scrape into a gallon size zip-lock bag. Add 2 lbs of lamb or chicken cut into 1/2" x 3" strips.  Toss to coat the meat. Grill a few vegetables like zucchini strips, red onion slices and strips of bell pepper. When  the veggies are done, grill the meat for 5 to 10 minutes turning once over high heat.  Serve the veggies and meat buffet-style with leaves of butter lettuce.  Then let your family build their own lettuce wraps!  I like mine with a little yogurt dressing and some cilantro.

Want to learn more? Why not join me for a grilling class? I'll be teaching a fun class on Tuesday, June 10th at the Sanctuary at Admiral in West Seattle.

My Mom's Smokey Roni - Kind of...

My friend, Cathy, is celebrating a birthday today and her dear husband, Carl, asked her friends to each send a handwritten recipe and photo of their favorite macaroni and cheese recipe. Carl's request got me thinking about a recipe that my mom used to make called Smokey Roni. It was in the regular dinner rotation. I thought it might be a fun recipe to give to Cathy.

Over the years, I've collected a number of the cookbooks that I grew up with (and that my mom still uses), so I decided to see if the recipe was included in one called, "Dinner in a Dish." Sure enough, it was listed in the index but when I turned to the recipe it read "1 box macaroni and cheese." My mother NEVER made it with boxed macaroni and cheese! 

You know, I give my mom crap for not being much of a cook but the truth is I liked her cooking growing up. She put dinner on the table every night. Sure, it was the 1970's and we ate a lot of casseroles but my mom did a lot from scratch. We always had a garden, and to this day she cans, pickles, and freezes fresh vegetables every summer. She didn't share my passion for cooking but she did a fine job of feeding the family. I laugh now about her "regular rotation" menu selections but here I am 40 years later collecting her old cookbooks and looking up nostalgic recipes. So, I was actually quite impressed to see that although she'd used the Smokey Roni recipe as a guideline, she'd gone out of her way to make the mac-n-cheese from scratch. (Way to go, Mom!) Following in my mother's footsteps, I created my own mac-n-cheese recipe homage to Smokey Roni.

Vince tasted tested the recipe with glee and absolutely loved it. A hit all the way around! Thanks Carl and Cathy for inspiring me to revisit a wonderful childhood recipe. Hope you like it as much as we did.

Smokey Roni

Serves 4

8 ounces elbow macaroni (substitute gluten free if you like)

2 tablespoons butter, plus additional for buttering casserole dish

2 tablespoons finely minced onion

1 tablespoon potato starch (for gluten free) or flour 

1 teaspoon kosher salt or sea salt

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon granulated garlic

pinch of freshly ground black pepper

2 cups half-n-half or whole milk

10 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, grated (approximately 3 cups)

10 ounces frozen chopped broccoli, thawed and drained well (approximately 2 cups)

6 ounces diced ham, (approximately 1 cup)

1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

Cook elbow macaroni as directed on package. Aim for al dente since the pasta will cook longer in the sauce. Drain and rinse with cool water to stop the cooking process. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 400F. Grease a 2 quart casserole pan with butter.

Meanwhile in a medium saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons of butter over medium-low heat. Add minced onion and sweat until translucent, about 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in potato starch, salt, dry mustard, granulated garlic and pepper. Stir until smooth and beginning to bubble. Slowly stir in half and half. Increase the heat to medium and cook until the mixture is just about to simmer. Add the grated cheddar and stir until the cheese has melted and the sauce is smooth.

Pour the drained macaroni into the casserole pan. Add the chopped broccoli and diced ham. Pour the cheese sauce over the top and mix gently until everything is nicely coated. Top with grated parmesan and bake, uncovered, for 20 minutes until the dish is bubbling and the top has turned a light golden brown.